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07/14/01

Question: I just purchased a 1986 Mustang SVO. While most of the car is in pretty good condition, the leather trim is in pretty bad shape. Are these parts still available? -- From the Internet.

Answer: The original steering wheels, steering wheel center pads, shift knobs, and shift boots for all years of Mustang SVO are virtually identical, though there were some production run changes on the center pad between 1984 and 1985 (the part number was updated, at least) and the later, or at least the Ford replacement shift boot boots have a slightly different "Hurst" embossing.

All of these parts are indeed hard to find in "NOS" form (new old stock), and are long gone from dealer's shelves.

The steering wheel and center, and the shift knob take the most abuse from daily driving. The brake handle grips and shift boot do not see the abuse that the other pieces see. Good used pieces can be found if you are patient, and NOS pieces turn up once in a while, but they usually a premium price, and we've seen prices from $250-$500 for each.

The SVOOA did at one time have a great deal to recover the steering wheels by Ford's OEM in Canada, but the factory has since been bought-out and shut down.

However, they have recently announced a special program through its SVE - Special Vehicle Enterprises - to refurbish all of the leather trim, please download an Acrobat PDF order form, or download an HTML order form. E-mail svooa.nationaloffice@sympatico.ca for more information.

Here are the original part numbers and some alternatives:

SVO Steering Wheel -- Ford E4ZZ-3600-A -- Obsolete -- Recover; or remove the leather to reveal the bare plastic (usually these start life as a black or other colored plastic steering wheel); or buy a used Mustang GT or a new aftermarket steering wheel for that custom look.

SVO Steering Wheel Center Pad (Emblem) -- Ford E4ZZ-3649-A and E5ZZ-3649-A -- Obsolete -- Recover; or pick up a Mustang GT center in black plastic with blue Ford oval; or with a new aftermarket steering wheel, you'll get a new center.

SVO/Hurst Leather Shift Knob: Ford E4ZZ-7213-A (Knob Assembly) -- Obsolete -- Recover; or replace with Motorsport T-5 Shift Knob M-7213-A. Reports come from many SVO owners that the nylon threads will "rethread" (effectively strip) to accommodate the SVO's unique threads, which are different than other Mustangs. You may also use an aftermarket knob, as virtually all of them come with a thread insert to fit the SVO. Another option is to change the shift lever with a later SVT Cobra-compatible lever (any non-SVO T-5 lever) and use the leather SVT Cobra knob of your choice, available at your Ford dealer.

SVO/Hurst Leather Shifter Boot: Ford E4ZZ-7277-B -- Obsolete -- Recover; or replace with Motorsport Boot M-7277-A, or similar aftermarket boot.

(Originally Posted 07/29/99; Revised 01/11/00; Revised 07/07/00; Revised 07/14/01)

 

07/07/00

Question: I have heard that you can tell the year of a Mustang SVO from the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) -- how do you do this? I want to be able to tell if an SVO is a 1985 or a 1985.5. -- From the Internet

Answer: The VIN contains a few important bits of information. Let's decipher 1FABP28TxFFxxxxxx:

1FA = U.S., Ford Motor Co.
B = Restraints (seatbelts)
P = Passenger car
28 = 3-door Hatchback
T = 2.3L EFI Turbo for the 1984-86 Mustang SVO
Contrary to some erroneous publications in circulation, if the vehicle in question is a 28T vehicle that was built during the 1984 to 1986 model years, it's indeed a Mustang SVO; if it's not a 28T and it was built during 1984 to 1986, it's not a Mustang SVO. A 3-door hatchback body/engine code commonly-confused with the SVO -- 28W -- indicates a Mustang GT Turbo hatchback.

x = any random number as a check-digit

To decipher the year of Mustang SVO, the next digits would be the year sequence:

EF = 1984; or

FF = 1985 and 1985.5; or

GF = 1986.

123456 = six-digit consecutive Mustang production number beginning with 100001 (not necessarily the actual production number)

To tell the difference between a 1985 and a 1985.5 you would have to look at the equipment and the sequential unit number (we will hope to post more definitive information on this in the future). Generally (because some people modify their cars), a 1985.5 will have flush headlights like the 1986 (instead of recessed); a "square" intake like the 1986 (instead of inline); and dual (left and right) tailpipes like the 1986 (instead of a single driver's side "dual tip").

In summation, the 1985.5 is effectively the same as a 1986 but the wing will have no 3rd brake light, and most 1985.5 models do not have the "SVO" emblem on the fenders like the 1986 has.

ADDITIONAL WARNING: Ford's own 1984 Car Specifications Book (FPS 355-336-84, published January 1984) does not list the "T" engine code for the Mustang SVO; the only 2.3L Turbo it lists is the "W" engine for the Mustang GT Turbo. Thus, some "authoritative" Mustang guides, such as some editions of the Mustang Red Book, errantly state that the Mustang SVO has a "W" engine code (instead of the "T") and this is incorrect.

For the years 1984-86, the engine code "T" indicated the Mustang SVO's 2.3L Turbo engine. Thus, all Mustang SVOs have an engine code of "T" and subsequently, all 1984-86 Mustangs with and engine code of "T" are Mustang SVOs. (Be advised that some Fords built in years other than 1984-86 had the engine code of "T" however they were not Mustang SVOs.) (Posted 03/21/00; Updated 07/08/00)


Question: I just recently purchased a 1985 SVO color 4E (dark sage) with sunroof and it's 100% original. The dealer sticker price was listed as $17,565. My question is that while driving it recently, the timing belt broke and I want to know if this will have an adverse effect on the valves? I know some Escorts built in the mid-80s would incur valve damage when the timing belts break, is the SVO like this also? -- Elizabeth, From The Internet

Answer: Congratulations on your new purchase -- it sounds wonderful!
 
We have good news for -- the 2.3L EFI turbo motors such as in the SVO are what they call a "non-interference" engine design. There should be no danger of valve damage of any kind should the timing belt break.
 
Refer to a shop manual to ensure you get the crankshaft, distributor, and camshaft syncronized to the #1 cylinder. Replace the timing belt with a Ford E5ZZ-6268-A (and remember to replace the belt every 30,000 miles). If the tensioner has never been replaced, this might be a good time to replace it with a Ford F57Z-6K254-A (recommended replace the tensioner every 60,000 miles). -- Ed. (Posted 05/16/00)
 

Question: I was wondering if you could tell me how much boost the 1985-1/2 SVO has in stock form? -- Jason K., From The Internet

Answer: Jason, both the 1985-1/2 and 1986 SVOs had 15 PSI of boost from Ford. The 1984 and early 1985 SVOs had 14 PSI from Ford. -- The SVO Guru (Posted 05/01/00)
 

Question: I have a fuel system leak on my Mustang SVO. I first started smelling gasoline while driving, and when I stopped and looked under the hood I noticed there's a small pool of fuel in-between the runners on the lower intake manifold. Do I need new injectors? -- From The Internet

Answer: Most likely you have at least one injector, or one injector seal that is causing the problem; or possibly a leak in a fuel runner (though the latter is not very common). Try to isolate which injector assembly is the culprit (here, we will use that term as an injector with two seals).
 
Carefully examine the injectors in their current state while they are still installed on the car. With the engine off, use good lighting (and a mirror if necessary) to see if you can locate evidence of fuel or fuel residue coming from either the top injector seal; from the lower rim of the injector "hat" (the plastic top cover of the injector body -- green on early SVOs; brown on later); or the lower injector seal. You may find success by following the path of fuel from the manifold up to the injector. In any case, you should see either moisture or discoloration -- evidence of the suspect injector assembly.
 
Once that assembly is identified (it may just be one) you should try to establish if it's one of the seals, or the hat -- it may be hard to tell because by driving the car, fuel may work its way up the injector. Examine the injector and immediate area carefully and wipe it clean; as well as the neighboring area.
 
If it's the seal, follow a shop manual for proper instructions on changing the injectors in regards to relieving fuel pressure from the schrader valve in the fuel line. Be sure to exercise proper precautions and never work on a hot engine or near sparks or flame. Have a qualified technician do the repair for you if you don't think you are able to do so.
 
You may be able to squeeze-out the offending injector by removing the fuel rail-to-intake bolts (versus disassembling the entire intake assembly). In either case, be careful as the intake manifold is aluminum, and the threads strip easily. Once the suspect injector is removed, replace the seals with a pair of Motorcraft CM-4717 or Ford F0PZ-9229-A (they are equivalent). I would just do the one injector first and see if that works.
 
If the leak ends-up being a leaky injector, you may need to replace the entire injector. Some people have had success at thoroughly cleaning the exterior of the injector and sealing the hat to the body with a high-temp silicone bead.
 
Ultimately it would be good to replace all of the injector seals, or the injectors, once you identify the problem -- Editor (Posted 04/01/00)
 

Question: I was told by an SVO owner that he "flips" the fuel selector switch to the "REGULAR UNLEADED'' position when he drives in the rain, even when running premium fuel. Why is this done, and is it recommended? -- From The Internet

Answer: High horsepower engines and wet roads are a dangerous mix. Adding to that, rainy weather makes the air more dense and enables the SVO's Turbocharged and Intercooled engine to generate even more horsepower. Coupled with the wet, oily roads (especially after a "new" rain), a severe reduction in traction can occur during abrupt acceleration. With the fuel selector switch set at "REGULAR,'' it limits the amount of available boost to approximately 9-10 PSI. This means that you'll have less horsepower, but also less of a chance of "breaking-loose'' in the rain (which is not recommended for obvious reasons). Running the car in this mode produces no side-effects. A good friend (who once "got sideways" several years ago) now also runs with his tank no less than about half full for the extra weight it provides for increased traction with his stock "Gatorbacks." -- The SVO Guru (Posted 01/11/00; Updated 3/21/00)
 

Question: I heard that both the rear shocks and front struts on the SVO are adjustable, but a mechanic at my local dealer says that they never came with adjustable shocks. What gives? -- From the Internet

Answer: The person you talked to certainly needs a lesson in performance Fords. It is truly amazing how many people -- let alone Ford people at the dealer service level -- have no idea what an exceptional machine the Mustang SVO really is. To answer your question, all Mustang SVOs were equipped from the factory with adjustable KONI shock absorbers and struts. In fact, back in 1984, at least two European Ford models also came with KONIs -- the Escort XR-3 and the Fiesta 'S'.

The KONIs have four settings: 1) The boulevard/freeway setting is the softest and provides a comfortable ride on normal roads; 2) the touring (factory) setting gives a crisper yet comfortable handling characteristic; 3) cross country offers increased cornering ability, improved road feel, and precise directional stability at higher speeds with a grand tourismo spirit; and 4) competition is for true race performance, recommended only for the track.

The rear shocks really need only be adjusted for the competition setting. To do this, using a floor jack, wheel blocks, and two stationary jack stands is highly recommended. First, raise the rear of the car with a floor jack positioned under the differential. When there is sufficient clearance, place the jack stands on each side of the axle housing. Be careful not to crush any cables or tubing when doing this. Lower the car so that the two jack stands bear the weight of the car. Once the car is secure, crawl underneath and loosen the lower attaching bolts to the shocks. Be careful, because the gas pressure will tend to extend the shock. Put a piece of cloth or square piece of rubber onto the cup of the floor jack and use the jack to compress the shock. When the shock is fully compressed, turn slowly counterclockwise (assuming it is not in the factory setting of full counterclockwise). Now turn the shock body clockwise and count the turns until you have reached the desired setting, or to full clockwise for competition.

For the front struts, you'll need the adjusting wheel tool that was included with the car. (If you don't have a tool, you should be able to buy one at your local KONI dealer a crescent wrench may also work.) After opening the hood of the car, fit the adjusting wheel over the top end of the strut's D-shaped adjusting rod. Now turn the adjusting wheel clockwise to reset the strut to its softest setting. (Counting the number of turns gives you a reference point as to where to increase or decrease your setting.) If you feel resistance, do not use force, as the strut is probably in an unadjusted position. Instead, reverse the adjustment slightly and try again. Now, to increase the dampening force, turn the wheel counterclockwise: One turn for touring; 2-1/2 turns for cross country; or all the way for competition.

(Shock adjusting procedure excerpted from ''About Your KONI Shocks on Your Ford SVO,'' September, 1984. This was a KONI leaflet originally included with your new Mustang SVO, and is available in reprint form from Performance Parts Inc. -- see our Links page.) (Updated 10/24/99)


Question: The factory stereo in my 1985 SVO is in bad shape -- the display does not work, and it has no knobs. What are my options to replace or repair this? -- A.B, Ariz.

Answer: The factory stereos in the 1985-86 Mustang SVO are all the same, featuring the Premium Sound system-- an option common across the Mustang line-up. They are also virtually identical to the units offered in other Fords, but the Mustang stereos illuminate "red" instead of "green." To fix the display, generally it only requires the replacement of a special bulb that backlights the "LED"-type display. The knobs could be borrowed off of a donor stereo from a salvage yard.

If you have more serious problems with your original stereo, most Ford dealers and Ford Quality Care service centers can send your stereo out to an authorized service center for repair -- contact the customer service representative at your local facility for more information. -- Editor (Updated 08/01/99)


7/29/99

Question: The KONIs in my 1984 Mustang SVO have failed. What brands of replacement shocks and struts do you recommend, or should I get new KONIs? I have also heard there is a warranty on KONIs, and I can get my KONIs rebuilt -- is this true? -- From the Internet.

Answer: The original KONIs that came with your SVO are really the best-available shocks and struts. You might want to take this opportunity to replace all of your shocks and struts with new KONIs. If you have an late 1984 (built after late December 1983) with the "Quad Shocks" (standard on all SVOs after 1984) you might consider replacing those too.

Some SVO enthusiasts have replaced their stock KONI ("red") rears shocks with KONI Sports ("yellow") on the rear only because these are adjustable from the interior (KONI Sports are not available for the SVO fronts).

Other manufacturers either do not offer a model for the SVO (because of the unique front suspension -- the rears are standard Mustang); or are clearly inferior and do not provide the level of handling that the men at Special Vehicle Operations intended when they designed the suspension.

If you are the original owner of the Mustang SVO, you would most likely qualify for the KONI Shock Absorber Limited Warranty. To participate in this program, you have two options:
If you are NOT the original owner of the Mustang SVO, you also have two options:
When making your decision, keep in mind that the 1984 SVO KONI struts had stiffer valving than for the 1985-86 SVO, so you will want to specify your preference when you buy or rebuild your struts. Prices, availability and turnaround time can vary greatly.


1/16/99; Revised 1/11/00

Question: My 1986 Mustang SVO had one of the clips break at the little 2" clutch cable (at first I thought it was the 2" cable). I have heard about the adjustable clutch quadrants and am thinking that this would be a good time to "upgrade" and get rid of this stock linkage setup. What have you heard about these quadrants? -- Eric A., Calabasas, Calif., White 1986 SVO.

Answer: Eric, the only adjustable clutch quadrant that has been available for the SVO (up until recently -- keep reading) is the one from Classic Corral in Sacramento, Calif. -- unfortunately, this kit is really a 5.0 unit with a poorly engineered adapter that still needed some modification to properly fit on the SVO. In fact I've heard of several people who had trouble with that kit from Classic Corral.

Years ago it was brought to Classic Corral's attention by our founding director that the common 5.0 quadrant kit would not fit at all (they were selling 5.0 kits without any adapter at all for SVOs), and even though they finally developed an optional adapter to make it fit on the SVOs unique clutch mechanism, it still has its design flaws.

In addition to that, the Classic Corral quadrant kit does not affect the unique SVO linkage to the extent that it still retains the often troublesome 2" cable and the two clips. I suggest that you just replace the clips and the cable, and your stock mechanism should be just fine.

In late 1998, Central Coast Mustang released a new adjustable quadrant kit that is designed specifically for the Mustang SVO. An article published in the April, 1999 edition of Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords covered an installation of this quadrant kit in a Mustang SVO. Reports thus far from the author are that it is a good unit, and pedal travel is completely adjustable from underneath the car. The kit includes an entire cable assembly and the hardware to adapt it to the Mustang SVO (because of the limited production of the SVO, the hardware may periodically be on production backorder).

The Forte Quadrant is yet another option that allows you to adjust the pedal travel from under the hood. Retaining the stock cable set-up, it installs relatively easily. See our Links & Vendors page for sources

No matter how good a quadrant is -- or what design or brand you use -- it seems you still need two D5FZ-2861-A "Links" and the one E6ZZ-7535-A "Cable" -- replace all three items, and add a dab of lube on each end of the cable to prevent future wear problems. For as inexpensive as these little parts cost (about $15 total) they should be replaced with every clutch change; or at least keep them handy for a spare -- they are not always stocked at your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer and their failure will definitely prevent you from being able to shift gears! (I have actually been stranded twice because of these parts -- once by the cable; and once by a clip!) -- Editor (Posted 12/14/97)


Question: I had a 1986 Mustang SVO, white, leather, sunroof, and the "bi-plane spoiler delete" (GT-style single wing) option. Can you tell me exactly how many single wing cars were made? I've been trying to find this out forever. Can you help? Thanks! -- Wayne, (former) White 1986 SVO.

Answer: Wayne, according to the Turbo Times, the newsletter of the SVO Owners Association, Inc., here are some 1986 production numbers you may find interesting:

547 Oxford White for 1986
1004 Sunroof option for 1986
1150 Leather seat option for 1986
295 Single rear spoiler option for 1986

While we cannot establish how many white SVOs had the single rear spoiler, it indeed looks like you had a pretty rare model. I hope this information is what you wanted. -- The SVO Guru (Posted 12/6/97)


Question: The little black knob on my heater control cracked and fell apart. Is this another one of those "hard-to-find" SVO-only parts? -- Monty A., Pasadena, Calif., Canyon Red 1986 SVO (Posted 11/17/97)

Answer: Monty, this is easy. The heater control knob assemblies are readily available this is a straight-forward fix. Often you have to remove from the heater control lever a small metal clip which remains from the old knob assembly. It should just pull-off. You will want to go to your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer (it is a common and often-stocked part) and get a replacement heater control knob assembly. It is Ford part number E43Z-18519-A -- Knob Assembly, and there are two per pieces per package (you will definitely want a spare). -- Editor


Question: The top portion of the interior door handle on my SVO came loose and I have not been able to get it to stay fastened. I re-insert the "green" clip and then screw it back in, but it keeps "popping" out. Do I need a new door handle? -- From the Internet (Posted 11/17/97)

Answer: This should be a simple fix. You will want to go to your local Ford or Lincoln/Mercury dealer (it is a common and often-stocked part) and get a replacement upper door handle clip. It is Ford part number E1DZ-5424146-BB -- Clip. You only need one clip per side (there are 11 of these clips per box and they usually sell them individually -- and the ones I found were not the same color green by the way). Remove the old clip (you may want to remove or at least loosen the entire door handle), insert the new clip into the door, and carefully screw-in the retaining screw. This should hold you for a long while -- one of mine went out probably 8 years ago and is still holding fine. -- Editor


01/15/00

Question: A few days ago, I bought a 1984 Mustang SVO in excellent condition. I knew that this was the car I wanted to buy though I've had virtually no experience with this particular Mustang (I used to own a '68 hardtop and thought I was familiar with a lot of different Mustangs from '64-1/2 on up). My question for you has to do with the "Competition Prep" option I read about at your website (by the way -- awesome website!). My '84 SVO does not have leather interior, stereo, or the A/C options. Does this automatically make my Mustang one of those "Competition Prep" models? And what exactly does that mean? Thanks for your time. -- Jeff F., 1984 SVO (Posted 10/18/97)

Answer: Jeff, the early 1984 cars had several items as options, such as power windows, power door locks, air conditioning, AM/FM cassette stereo, etc. As far as I know, what would be considered a competition prep model was simply an SVO without any options. In mid-December of 1984 those options became standard equipment (along with the "quadra shocks" instead of the "traction bars"). After that point, only leather seating surfaces and sunroof were optional. As a result, some of these early vehicles can have numerous combinations of options that a later '84 would not have. [Thus, if it is sparsely-optioned, it is likely an early 1984 model -- Editor]

To make it confusing, Ford never listed a competition prep (Comp Prep) option for 1984 in any of the printed literature, but did feature it in an advertisement (that I happen to have framed and hanging on my "SVO Wall of Fame"). And Ford did build at least one production Comp Prep SVO in 1984 -- it was for Mac Tools, and it also is the only factory white colored SVO for 1984. That happens to be the only 1984 Comp Prep SVO that I know of, but that does not mean that's the only one.

The Comp Prep models were intended for racing -- with reduced weight (about 400 pounds) and no frills, they were ready for the track. We've recently coined the term, when speaking of a Mustang SVO, as "Early SVT Cobra" as most people understand the concept and origin of the SVT Mustang Cobra. Likewise, you could consider a Comp Prep as an "Early Cobra 'R' -- after the 1993 and 1995 SVT Mustang Cobra 'R'. Interestingly, the 1995 Cobra 'R' -- the most race-ready Mustang since the Shelbys of the 1960s, was initially restricted for sale to race drivers.

For 1985, 1985.5 and 1986, the Mustang SVO came fully-loaded, with the only optional extras being leather seating surfaces, sunroof, and bi-plane spoiler delete (a single-wing "GT" spoiler which was painted to match body color). Comp Prep was actually an option to omit standard extras, and if so-equipped, it was listed on the window sticker. According to the 1986 Ford Car Facts Book, "Competition Preparation Package - deletes standard air conditioning, power lock group, power side windows, AM/FM stereo radio and Premium Sound System" (hence, the radio and antenna block-off plates) from the standard equipment list.

The question I have for you is -- can you confirm (or strongly assume) that the vehicle was manufactured with radio and antenna block-off plates; no sunroof, power door locks, power windows, or air conditioning? If you answer yes to all of the above, it looks like you have yourself one of the very few 1984 Comp Preps. -- The SVO Guru (Posted 10/18/97)


Question: I'm interested in more information about the Mustang SVO. Specifically, did all model years, 1984 to 1986, have 4-wheel disc brakes? -- Ali'i P., Honlulu, Hawaii (Posted 10/12/97)

Answer: Yes, and they were all identical in design. This was one of the more unique features of the Mustang SVO. If you remember, back in 1984 (actually fall of 1983 when it was introduced) it was unheard of to have 4-wheel disc brakes and 5-lug hubs -- especially on a Mustang. But fortunately, the men at Special Vehicle Operations were able to borrow parts from the Lincoln Mark VII and Continental of the era, which in not only resulted in a good-handling car (thanks to standard-equipped Koni struts and shocks and 16" Goodyear NCT or Eagle "Gatorback" tires), but one with good stopping power.

This same configuration happened to be effectively the same disc brakes that Saleen used on their Mustangs up through 1993, and were also sold through Ford Motorsport/SVO as upgrades to other Mustangs. Even the 4-wheel disc brakes on the 1993 SVT Cobra (with the exception of the few 1993 Cobra R models built) did not compare to the stopping power offered 9 years earlier on the Mustang SVO. -- Editor


Question: I am interested in using carbon fiber brake pads in my SVOs. Some say they are superior to other specialized-compound pads. Retail prices run around $300 for front and rear which is substantially higher than the stock Ford pads. Any suggestions? -- Bill J., 1984 & 1986 SVOs (Posted 10/12/97)

Answer: In my opinion, the stock brake pads (Front, M-2001-G; Rear, M-2200-A) work better and are less expensive. You don't use much rear brake even on the race track. -- Mike F., National SVOOA Technical Director


1/25/99

Question: I heard a rumor that the Mustang SVO shared some rear axle parts with different Lincoln models. Is this true? I was looking at some axles to replace the ones on my SVO, such as from the 1986 Mark VII, but they have an ABS sensor on them. Will these get in the way on my SVO, or pull one from the Continental? -- Sam H., 1986 SVO, College Station, Tex. (Posted 10/12/97)

Answer: The axles with the ABS sensor may be interchangeable, but you obviously might have to deal with additional bracketry that won't be used. You would want to compare the parts side-by-side, but I bet the ABS-equipped corresponding part could be modified to fit the SVO. Here is a summary of some other SVO rear suspension parts that are borrowed from Lincoln's parts bin. -- Editor

Rotor, Right: E8LY-2C026-A (same as 82-87 Continental; 84-90 Mark VII)

Rotor, Left: E8LY-2C027-A (same as 82-87 Continental; 84-90 Mark VII)

Splash Shield, Right: E25Y-2C028-A (same as 82-84 Continental; 84 Mark VII)

Splash Shield, Left: E25Y-2C028-B (same as 82-84 Continental; 84 Mark VII)

Caliper, Right: E4LY-2552-A (same as 82-87 Continental; 84-90 Mark VII)

Caliper, Left: E4LY-2553-A (same as 82-87 Continental; 84-90 Mark VII)

Shaft, Axle, Right: E25Y-4234-A (same as 82-84 Continental; 84-92 Mark VII w/o ABS)

Shaft, Axle, Left: E25Y-4234-B (same as 82-84 Continental; 84-92 Mark VII w/o ABS)

Warning: When buying rear rotors from other than a Ford dealer, make sure you get both a "left" and a "right" rotor, with fins opening in the proper direction (they are generally stamped "L" and "R" accordingly). Some aftermarket replacement rotors are finned "straight-out" and thus have only one part number (this of course allows them to streamline stock and manufacturing) for both left and right -- instead of two parts with each side optimized for cooling.


1/16/99

Question: My Mustang SVO needs front ball joints and I have been unsuccessful in finding replacements. My Ford dealer wants nearly $1,000 a pair for all-new front lower control arms, and I can't bring myself to spend that much money. Is there a cheaper fix? (Posted 10/12/97)

Answer: As we learned in the question above, Special Vehicle Operations borrowed from the Lincoln parts bin for many of the front and rear suspension parts. The part in question, Arm Assembly, Lower Control w/ball joint: E4ZZ-3078-A and E4ZZ-3079-A (same as 82-83 Continental) is what is called a "non-servicable part." You have to replace the entire unit.


Question: I've heard of guys installing aluminum front bumper supports in place of the steel to lighten the front end. I don't know of anybody who has actually done this, nor do I know how to find one. Please help. -- Lyle S., Durham, NC, 1986 SVO (Posted 6/26/97; revised 10/12/97)

Answer: Aluminum front bumper supports are popular among racers to balance the car better and are supposed to save 15-25 pounds off the front. Ford used these aluminum supports back in 1979 when they only had to satisfy 2.5 mph crash standards. Sometime in 1980 they switched to steel bumpers to satisfy the 5 mph standard. The aluminum models can be found as original equipment on virtually any 1979-80 Mustang/Capri, especially the RS models. You may also wish to replace the rear, but the fronts are used to get a better front to rear weight balance, not lighten the car. They are reasonably abundant in wrecking yards (hint: take a magnet with you). Keep in mind the safety factor, and there may be other (legal) implications involved. -- Editor


Question: I'm looking for a custom car cover for my SVO -- preferably made with the Kimberly Clark Evolution IV fabric. The standard Mustang covers do not clear the rear spoiler. Any idea who makes one? -- Lyle S., Durham, NC, 1986 SVO (Posted 6/26/97)

Answer: Lyle, this is a great topic as a reminder that most of us should all be taking better care of our SVOs. For questions like this, I always go to my car care experts at Mothers Polishes-Waxes-Cleaners where they are very familiar with the Evolution fabrics and use them on their own show car covers.

Mothers recommended to find out more about Kimberly Clark's line of fine car care fabrics to call 1-800-424-8000 and order a free Kimberly Clark "Care & Cover" video. Make sure you have this number handy: 44-99-86.

Mothers also recommended for those who want to order a custom car cover, call California Car Covers at 1-800-423-5525.

And once you have that car cover, you'll want to make sure you use Mothers Showtime Instant Detailer. For more information on the growing line of Mothers products, visit www.mothers.com -- Editor


Question: My 86 SVO has begun to bog down under heavy acceleration. A friend suggested that the wastegate was not opening properly, or not functioning at all, resulting in a "too lean" air/fuel ratio. How do I diagnose or troubleshoot the wastegate? -- Kevin H., Brooklyn, N.Y., 1986 SVO (Posted 6/22/97)

Answer: You need a vacuum/boost pump to check a wastegate. Or just drive the car and hook-up a second boost gauge to see what pressure is at under boost condition. The procedure is outlined in the Helm (official Ford) shop manual for checking with a pump. I can't reiterate enough the value of a set of shop manuals. -- The "SVO Guru"


Question: The leather upholstery on my SVO has totally deteriorated. I can't find any stores that have kits, nor upholstery shops that have material to match. Does anybody make seat covers I can put on myself? [This is a common question, as I received two inquires recently -- Editor] -- Jeff C., Orlando, Florida, SVO and Justin G., North Branch, N.J., 1984 SVO

Answer: I wish all questions were this easy! I'm happy to say that I know fellow SVO Owners Association member Lee Clary who works for E&G Classics in Columbia, Maryland. And E&G is famous for their leather upholstery kits (see the May 1997 edition of Mustang Monthly, pages 72-77). E&G produces an exact replacement kit for the SVO leather upholstery. It comes complete, with no additional sewing required, and is ultra violet and abrasion resistant. In fact, it comes with a 3 year/36,000 mile warranty!

And with the resurgence of the popularity of leather, this kit from E&G is also a viable alternative to those of us with fabric interiors, as there are no fabric kits available anywhere.

Contact Lee Clary, owner of two 1986 SVOs, at 1-410-381-4900 for additional information. You can also E-mail Lee directly. To order, call 1-800-394-2774. -- Editor


Question: The fog light switch burned-out in my '86 SVO. I went to my Ford dealer and found out they have been discontinued. I hate to install a generic switch, and I'm wondering why Ford would they discontinue such an important part in the first place? -- Christopher R., Studio City, Calif., 1986 SVO

Answer: This is yet another instance where Ford needs to be reminded that these cars are very much alive! As a group we can exert pressure on them to re-issue such parts. But since that doesn't help you now, and the part is discontinued by Ford, you have only two options.

First, you can try salvage yards. But SVOs are getting resurrected more often than they used to be, so salvaged cars are getting harder to find. Hence, used parts like this are getting harder to find. And even if you do find one, chances are it is worn-out. Keep in mind that you only need the mechanical portion of the switch (the bezel is swappable) -- these are found also in T-Birds and Escorts. But you may be able to borrow internal parts to repair your existing switch.


Question: I have a 1984 Mustang with a 2.3L and a turbo. The pipe connecting the EGR and the exhaust manifold broke when we were replacing the turbo and exhaust manifold. If you can tell me any where I can find one or have one made please write or call me. It's a life or death situation. Dealerships told us that they could not get one in the U.S. anywhere. Thanks and please send help! -- Greg V., North Olmsted, Ohio, 1984 Mustang GT Turbo

Answer: Greg, since the part is discontinued by Ford, and they apparently have no updated replacement part, your only option is to try to salvage yards. One possibility is for you or a local machine shop to attempt to re-manufacture or repair it. Good luck! -- The "SVO Guru"


Question: What is the easiest method of setting valve timing on a 1986 SVO motor when the timing belt has been removed and the crank shaft has been rotated? -- Philip S., Chesapeake, Va., Black 1984 SVO (with 1986 motor)

Answer: Philip, I'm assuming you just replaced the timing belt, which should be replaced at 30,000 mile intervals with a quality unit such as those available from Ford. Also, I recommend the tensioner pulley should be replaced approximately every 60,000 miles with a Ford unit (which has been updated).

Now back to your question. There are three things that MUST be lined up properly for any engine to fire and run. For the 2.3 (and similar engines), these are the following:

First, the distributor timing should be set with the rotor pointing to the #1 on the distributor cap (indicating spark to the number one cylinder).

Second, the camshaft timing should be set. There are three marks pertaining to the camshaft alignment and you should set the camshaft to the middle mark. To check this, this remove the rubber plug on the front timing cover, these usually become hardened and it will likely it will break if it has been on for a while, so be careful. Once you have the plug removed, view the camshaft pointer and make sure it is aligning with the middle mark.

The last item is of course crankshaft timing which you can set with the cover on and should be set at 0 degrees top dead center.

In summary, the distributor "pointer" is the center of the rotor blade, the camshaft has a pointer, and on the crankshaft you use the timing pointer. Good Luck. I Hope this helps you get back on the road. -- The "SVO Guru"


Question: Does Saleen (or anyone else) sell 1-1.5" lowering springs for the SVO? Can 5.0 lowering springs be used on the SVO? After lowering, what brand of struts and shocks should use? (I have worn-out Gabriel struts on the front, and the stock KONIs in the rear.) -- Philip S., Chesapeake, Va., Black 1984 SVO (with '86 motor)

Answer: Good question, Phil. There is a lot of confusion about springs, shocks, and the appropriate bushings (as well as their proper installation and application). The primary consideration is to replace all related components at once, with quality products. Too often Mustang owners replace the springs, only to find that the stock shocks can't handle the lower springs -- although this problem is more common amongst the "common" Mustang, and not the SVO as it came from the factory with race-bred KONIs.

As for springs, Saleen does have the correct spring set for the SVO. These springs are made by Eibach, who is perhaps the most respected maker of automotive springs. Saleen's part numbers are the same as Eibach's for the SVO spring kit, only Saleen's springs have the Saleen name on them and they are custom powder coated red instead of blue, and both are available from Saleen. (Remember that for some certain other Mustang applications, Saleen spring rates are custom made by Eibach for Saleen.) If you buy your SVO springs from an Eibach dealer, or from Saleen, you'll be getting the same spring.

Now that you have your springs selected, you'll want to return your front struts from the Gabriels to those made by KONI. KONI currently is the ONLY manufacturer of front struts and rear shocks for the SVO. You may be able to use the struts and shocks you have on the vehicle now but you may find after lowering the vehicle the seals may blow if they have not already due to the fact that you are now compressing the struts/shocks 1.25" further than in the past 10 years. One place to check for the KONIs would be Performance Parts Inc., one of the few KONI distributors who keeps them in stock for the SVO.

Finally, when you install lowering springs, I highly recommend you install offset steering rack bushings to compensate for the steering rack/tie rod end angles after lowering the vehicle. If you do not, you will discover the true meaning of "bump-steer." Every time you hit a bump, the steering wheel will pull and jerk. The bigger the bump, the bigger the pull. I had a chance to drive a friend's '84 SVO after we (at Saleen) installed the spring kit, and driving it like that should be considered unsafe. The steering rack bushings we used were the urethane units that we modified due to the fact that the '84 SVO steering rack had larger holes than the standard racks (you would have to modify them for your '84). The racks on the 85 and later SVOs had a different steering ratio, and thus perhaps a different diameter rack which may not require modifying the bushings, but I have not yet verified this. I hope this helps. -- The "SVO Guru"


Question: I have a 1984 SVO (with a '86 SVO motor & turbo). What exhaust system design would produce more horsepower, a dual 2.5" exhaust, or a single 3" exhaust utilizing muffler(s) by Flowmaster? (I have no catalytic convertor.) -- Philip S., Chesapeake, Va., Black 1984 SVO (with 1986 motor) (Revised 10/12/97)

Answer: Good question! Many Mustang SVO owners wish to retain the stock design of the exhaust simply for aesthetic reasons (or to retain distinction between model years, and to preserve collectibility). But since you have a modified SVO (an '84 with the higher-output '86 motor -- 175HP vs. 200HP), you're obviously willing to change from stock to improve performance.

The best performance gain is to go with the single exhaust such as you already have, but increase it to the 3" diameter you suggested -- as the single 3" will flow better than a dual 2.5" system. I know several SVO owners (besides myself -- and I have the Flowmaster muffler as well) who have converted their '85.5 or '86 with the dual exhaust to a single 3" and have been very happy with it. Not only that, for you to convert to a dual system on your '84 (as well as the '85) would also require you to re-locate the external fuel pump that is on the passenger side of the fuel tank to allow you to mount the new exhaust pipe.

No matter which exhaust system you get, be it custom or off-the shelf, I would also recommend a 3" downpipe be integrated to replace your stock 2.5" unit. A few vendors have downpipes for the SVO (see our Links & Vendors page) or you can get them custom-made at a good muffler shop that does mandrel bending and custom work. For street use we recommend you also use a high-flow catalytic converter.

Applied Technologies and Research (ATR -- see our Links & Vendors page for ATR dealers) at this time does not have a 3" single exhaust system for the '84 and '85 SVO -- only a dual system for the '85.5 and '86. Keep in mind though that a dual system can be retrofitted for the earlier cars if you re-route the external fuel pump or convert to the 1985 and later EFI In-tank pump as on all Mustangs after 1985).

Probably the best all-around performance gains can be produced with any single or dual exhaust system so long as it includes a 3" downpipe and a 3" high-flow catalytic converter. It really makes no sense to not use a catalytic converter when you need to have some back pressure to help the turbo spool up faster, and the more upstream you have it the better (within reason). And besides, why pollute the air we all have to breathe when you will only really loose a few horsepower? And of course, you'll also be smog legal, so you won't have to ever worry about registering the car, which is a major concern for most of us. -- The "SVO Guru"


Question: I have a 1986 SVO that is pretty much stock and runs 14.80's in the quarter mile, but I would like to make it about a second faster. I already have installed a conical filter, a 3" downpipe with a Walker Dynomax 2.25" cat-back exhaust system, and a complete MSD ignition (6al and blaster 3 coil). I am considering the installation of a nitrous oxide system on the car, or a stainless steel header. Which should I do? If not one of these modifications, can you suggest another? I am really tired of just barely losing to mildly-modified 5.0 Mustangs. Please help me! -- C.R.S., Metamora, Ill., 1986 SVO

Answer: I would go with the header first. Applied Technologies and Research (ATR, 1-864-972-3800) makes one of the stainless steel headers out there. You can order it with or without the exhaust gas recirculation fitting (I recommend with the E.G.R. to retain your smog controls system). If you are going to add a nitrous system (which is actually an inexpensive form of intercooling) I would not recommend more than a 50HP kit.

With the header, you install it and never have to refill it (nor do you incur any future costs). Besides, it gives you additional horsepower with (or without) the nitrous if you should add the nitrous later.

I have personally not tried the header from ATR, but I have researched it and I hope to get one soon. ATR claims at least a 22 horsepower increase for the header itself, and even more for their complete T-304 stainless steel downpipe which replaces the stock (and often troublesome) exhaust elbow, as well as a complete stainless dual 2.5" exhaust system with their own stainless mufflers -- The "SVO Guru"


Question: My 1986 SVO needs to have a smog check every other year to get it registered here in California, but I know my catalytic converter is "probably" blown out and I'm unlikely to pass the test. What are my options?

Answer: Depending on your budget, you have several options.

First of all, for the cheapest option, get estimates on a 2.5" catalytic converter to replace the one on the stock downpipe. (Even though the stock exhaust is 2.25" diameter, the downpipe is 2.5" -- something few people realize.) Get the new cat welded exactly in place of the original cat -- so the bolt-on flange and original hardware remains intact (when you try to pull the gearbox next time you change-out the clutch you'll be glad you paid extra and did it this way). Optionally, you may want to go with a "high-flow" 2.5" or 3" cat, but they are usually more expensive.

For more performance, you would want to go with a 3" downpipe which provides more spool-up, and it replaces exactly the stock 2.5" unit from the turbo elbow all the way down to the Y-pipe. These can be made by a really good muffler shop. You should be able to get most muffler shops to install this, and weld-in a cat.

For custom muffler work, you the options are many. A really good muffler shop (if you are in Southern California, Bake Muffler in Irvine, Calif. at 1-949-830-0808, or Hansen's Muffler in San Diego area) can weld-in a high-flow 3" cat at the end of the downpipe. Either now or later, you could have them build a new Y-pipe from 3" and split it off to two 2.5" pipes, and go 2.5" all the way back (new 2.5" mufflers, etc.). Or you could also bolt-on any of the mail order 2.5" cat-back kits as well.

Either way, the important thing is to retain your ability to swap out stock parts or readily-available aftermarket parts, as well as retain its disassembly characteristics for when you have to remove sections of the exhaust system to perform repairs. -- Editor


Question: My intercooler rattles something fierce. I've checked the bolts, but it's actually the pivot point that's still loose. What can be done to better secure the intercooler so it at least doesn't rattle?

Answer: Well, what has happened is quite common -- the brackets don't exactly hold it as tight as it should, especially after many thousands of miles. It's certainly annoying, and to complicate things, the rattling bracket will throw off the knock sensor and retard timing -- causing more problems!

Ford used to have shims for the pivots available, but like many other SVO parts, they have been discontinued. I tried using a silicone bead around the pivot points on the two brackets, but it didn't last long. Others suggested a durable o-ring, but they would eventually wear out too. Then, I got an e-mail from Mike Fleming (another respected "SVO Guru"), and he told me about the following little tech tidbit.

It turns out that the two original equipment intercooler hoses are no longer available. However, the corresponding parts used in the 1987-88 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe still are available and they are an ideal replacement (and they're cheaper too). They actually support the intercooler (instead using the two side brackets and the pivot support mounted on the exhaust manifold, which you can now remove). They're like a heavy duty version of the original hose, but made of a specially-molded rubber with built-in positioning stops so it's a pretty foolproof install. And the main benefit from this is that they keep the intercooler from rattling since the brackets which cause the rattle are now gone! You'll need one of each Ford part number E7SZ-6W650-A and E7SE-9F698-BB at about $35 list price for the two. -- The "SVO Guru"


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