This Tech Parts page is provided as a quick reference to every SVO owner. Alternative brands are suggestions only -- what works best for the individual owner is often up to him or her and particular needs or applications. You might also find this useful as a parts shopping list when doing a tune-up, or stocking-up on service parts.
Where either a Motorsport/SVO or Motorcraft part number and a Ford part number are listed, they are are equivalent unless otherwise noted. Generally speaking (but not always), the Motorsport/SVO and Motorcraft parts will be available at a price cheaper, and at more places, than the Ford part. The few cases where an aftermarket part is preferred, that will sometimes be noted. Generally the FoMoCo-branded parts will be a better alternative in terms of value and reliability than other brands. Where part prices are listed and where otherwise not specified, that is an estimated price only to be used as a guideline, and may reflect a discount (or not) and may include local sales tax (or not); or in the case of prices noted with ** they are from a 1992 reference and may even be an much out-of-date price.
This is not by any means a complete reference, so if you find additions or changes, please e-mail them to us! In some cases the interchangeability of a part is listed if that information is available at the time of editing. Obsolete parts are designated as such when information was available at the time of editing -- however at this age, parts are being obsoleted at a higher frequency.
Take note that the following part numbers are obtained from various sources, and very often a superseded Ford part number is listed, if applicable. Though it may not be identical in appearance, it should be identical -- or improved -- in function.
Most often listed are Motorcraft and/or Ford part numbers which are available at any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury dealer. In some cases other manufacturers are listed. It is important to mention that now that the Mustang SVO is 15+ years old, many service parts are no longer available from Ford; however, a lot of service parts are becoming available at your local auto parts store, especially NAPA (National Auto Parts Association) dealers -- part quality can vary, so buy wisely. Your local auto parts store will become a valued resource.
Fuel Injector Seals: Motorcraft CM-4717 or Ford F0PZ-9229-A -- Cold weather-compliant (package of 10 -- about $12)
TFI Module: Motorcraft DY-425 or Ford E43Z-12A297-A -- Thick Film Integrated Module. Also fits ALL EEC-IV FoMoCo Cars built from 1984-88 with distributor-mounted modules. This includes Tempo, Mustang, LTD, Thunderbird, Escort, and others. Though it is not required, for best performance lso be sure to change the stator at the same time.
Stator: Motorcraft DU-30C or Ford E8PZ-12A112-A -- Stator (Recommended to change with TFI Module) Retuires removal of the distributor and the use of a puller to remove; a press to install.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Ford E4ZZ-9F715-A -- Obsolete.
Spark Plugs: NGK V-Power TR5 (stock number 2238) or Motorcraft AWSF32C (The NGKs are often preferred)
Spark Plug Wires: Motorcraft WR-4011-C or Ford E8PZ-12259-A (Universal 4-cylinder set with extra wires for various applications); or Motorsport/SVO M-12259-C112 set for 4-Cylinder (Universal 4-cylinder set, cut-to-fit, blue 9mm wires with straight boots).
Air Filter: Motorcraft FA-970 or K&N E-1931 (The high-flow and washable K&N is the preferred filter -- and it is a street-legal replacement with a million-mile warranty)
Oil Filter: Motorcraft FL300
Thermostat: Motorcraft RT-1106 or Ford F57Z-8575-A
Thermostat Housing: Motorcraft RH-9 or Ford D8FZ-8592-B -- Connector (Paint Ford Gray to match if desired)
Radiator Cap: Motorcraft RS-64 or Ford E6LY-8100-A
Water Pump: Motorcraft PW 224 or Ford E6ZZ-8501-A (All New Water Pump with Gasket)
Heater Core: Standard Mustang unit -- symptoms include moisture on windshield instead of defrosting action; coolant smell; leakage on carpet. Bypass & flush core until repair can be made.
Voltage Regulator: Motorcraft GR-540-B or Ford F0PZ-10136-A (Recommended to Change w/ new Alternator)
Alternator Wiring Pigtail/Harness: Ford E3SZ-14305-A -- Obsolete.
Battery Cable, Positive: Motorcraft WC-8540 or Ford E3SZ-14300-A (Cable Assembly)
Battery Cable, Negative: Motorcraft WC-8541 or Ford E3SZ-14301-A (Cable Assembly)
Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator (IVR): Motorcraft GR-513 or Ford D1AZ-10804-A (May have been superceded with a newer part number; same as all Fox Mustangs and many other Fords through 1986.) Failure of IVR may cause charging system problems.
Head Bolts: Ford F3ZZ-6065-FA - Bolt Kit (Box of 10, 6-point bolts) about $19 List. These are not the same as the stock bolts, which have 12-point heads; these replacement bolts are "Torque-To-Yield" and should only be used once. Follow the instructions included in the box, which say "Install cylinder head bolts in sequence per shop manual. Tighten in sequence to 70 N-M (51 lb-ft). Retighten in sequence to 70 N-M (51 lb-ft). Turn all cylinder item bolts an additional 90-100 degrees in sequence."
Original Head Bolt Procedure as per the 1986 Car Shop Manual Powertrain/Lubrication/Maintenance section 21-05-12 -- Install cylinder head retaining bolts and tighten in sequence in two steps: 60-80 N*m (50-60 lb-ft), then 108-122 n*m (80-90 lb-ft) See Fig. 21.
For a diagram, see the thread on the Web Board discussing the Head Bolt Installation Procedure.
Camshaft: "Ranger Roller" -- Ford F1ZZ-6564-A - Popular economical camshaft -- later version.
Gasket, Turbo-to-Oil Return Line: Ford E3ZZ-9440-A - Gasket (Package of two -- you only need one) -- This is the "oblong" silver-colored fibre gasket for the oil return flange on the Garrett turbo from '83-on.
Gasket, Turbo-to-Exhaust Manifold: Ford E3ZZ-9450-A - Gasket (Package of two -- you only need one) -- This is the "rectangular" silver-colored metal gasket for the turbo-to-exhaust manifold on the 2.3L Turbos from '83-on.
Gasket, Turbo-to-Throttle Body/Intercooler Tube: Ford E3ZZ-9F703-A - Gasket (Package of two -- you only need one) -- This is the "oval" paper gasket for the turbo-to-throttle body (or intercooler on SVOs) on the 2.3L Turbos from '83-on.
Exhaust Manifold: Ford E3ZZ-9430-A - Manifold about $179 List. This fits all EFI Turbo 2.3 motors. Note that the engineering number on the part itself usually shows E6SZ-9430-AA -- or at least has "E6" and "9430" in the number cast into the part. The Engineering number had changed in 1986 (from E3 to E6 -- 1983 to 1986), and this is commonly called an "E6 Manifold."
Valve Stem Seals: Ford E7ZZ-6571-A (Intake) and Ford E7ZZ-6571-B (exhaust) -- Seal (Valve Stem) also known as "Turbo Coupe" valve seals (4 each per package)
Stock Valve Seals: Intake E43Z-6571-A -- Std. -B .015" O/S -C .030" O/S Exhaust D4FZ-6571-A -- Std. -B .015" O/S -C .030" O/SValve Cover Gasket: Ford F57Z-6584-A
Timing Belt: Ford E5ZZ-6268-A
Timing Belt Tensioner: Ford F57Z-6K254-A -- Change every 100,000 miles.
Timing Belt Cover -- Rear: Ford E3ZZ-6019-B -- "Inside" Timing Belt Cover (plastic)
Boost Control Solenoid Vacuum Line: Ford or Motorcraft -- heavy, thick-walled 7/32" Inside Diameter Distributor Vacuum Tubing (you will need to buy 3-feet). Cut both to same length of original (approximately 15"), and both should be exactly the same length.
Vane Air Meter: Ford E4ZZ-12B529-A Sensor Assembly (Common Engineering #E4ZX-12B529-AA)
Intercooler: Ford E5ZZ-6K775-A -- Obsolete
Intercooler Seal: Ford F4ZZ-16C884-A (Seal, Scoop) -- $26.40 -- Obsolete**
Intercooler Seal Mounting Bracket: Ford F4ZZ-16C888-A (Retainer, Scoop) -- $7.27 -- Obsolete**
Hood Insulator: Ford E4ZZ-16C888-A -- $34.32 -- Obsolete**
Centerforce Clutch Disc, Pressure Plates & Throwout Bearing:
Clutch Disc -- #281228 $106 (disc only)
Centerforce I (Gold) -- #CF360035, $195 (pressure plate
only -- with centrifugal weights)
This is considered "the finest quality upgrade," offering
30% more holding capacity with a "stock pedal feel."
Centerforce II (Orange) -- #CFT360035, $239 (pressure
plate only -- with more centrifugal weights)
This is recommended for use with "mildly modified" vehicles
used for "street and strip." It offers 60% more holding
capacity.
Dual Friction (Orange) -- #DF228035, $411 (matched
set, pressure plate & clutch)
This clutch/disc set "offers up to a 90% increase in holding
capacity," and "is designed for use with engines producing
'high
horsepower and torque' output, and any radically altered high
performance street vehicles."
Throw-Out Bearing -- N-1714, $40
Clutch Plate: Ford E6ZZ-7563-B or Motorsport/SVO M-7563-A221 -- Pressure Plate -- $73.95 list
Clutch Disc: Ford E6ZZ-7550-B or Motorsport/SVO M-7550-A221 -- Disc -- $79.95 list
Short Cable: E6ZZ-7535-A -- Cable -- about $8.68.
Short Cable Links: D5FZ-2861-A -- Link (two required) -- about $2.50 each.
Pilot Bearing: D4ZZ-7600-A
Throw-out Bearing: Ford D9ZZ-7548-A Hub & Bearing Assembly
Clutch Quadrant: Stock Ford or the quadrant for the Mustang by Forte -- retains original cable mechanism and adjusts from under the hood. The Forte quadrant does not replace the entire cable (and thus does not have installation problems with the Mustang SVO's unique clutch fork) like other popular quadrants on the market.
See our Links & Vendors page for vendors who stock the Forte quadrant as well as other clutch parts, and most importantly, support our hobby -- tell them you saw it at www.mustangsvo.org!
A few short notes about clutches...
There is indeed a difference between the 1984-85 and the 1985.5-86 clutch disc and pressure plate as originally supplied by Ford.
The Motorsport/SVO catalog described their clutch as...
"Original
equipment on 1985.5-86 Mustang SVO. Excellent upgrade for high
output/turbo 2.3L engines. Bolt-in replacement
for 1983-86 Thunderbird/Cougar/Mustang with 2.3L Turbo."
In summary, the clutch Motorsport/SVO sold in their catalog (it has become obsolete as of late 1999) as original equipment replacement for the 1985.5-86 SVO was basically an "upgrade" for the earlier SVOs (and select other 2.3L Turbos). Motorsport/SVO simply sold it using their own Motorsport/SVO part number as a "performance part" which is why it is so often requested.
If you want a
1984-spec clutch, you'll need a E4ZZ-7550-A (disc) and E4ZZ-7563-A
(pressure plate). Though we have no
opinion why you might/might not want the 1984 clutch over the
1985.5/86 clutch if other than personal preference. "Upgraded"
is not always "better."
All of the aforementioned parts are originally SVO-specific, utilizing a 10-spline shaft and a 8-7/8" diameter clutch.
Some people successfully run a Centerforce I or II pressure plate (known for their "soft/easy" pedal which can be an advantage if you drive your SVO in stop-and-go traffic) and a Motorsport or other "stock" disc; some "performance" clutch discs can tend to be less for normal daily driving and more for performance, and the performance clutches can tend to wear faster.
Front Lower Control Arm Assembly: Ford E4ZZ-3078-A and Ford E4ZZ-3079-A (same as 1982-83 Continental) $382.58 each** Obsolete
Front Rotor, Left & Right: E6LY-1102-A (same as 82-87 Continental; 84-92 Mark VII w/o ABS)
Front Caliper, Right: F1VY-2B120-A (same as 82-87 Continental)
Front Caliper, Left: E4LY-2B121-A (same as 82-87 Continental)
Steering Coupler & Shaft Assembly: E0BZ-3B676-A (same as 1980-86 4 & 6 cylinder Fox cars)
Steering Coupler: E0SZ-3B525-A (obsolete)
Booster, Brake: Ford E1BZ-2005-B (same as on 3.8 and 5.0 Mustangs)
Master Cylinder, Brake: Ford E25Y-2140-A (same as 1984-on Mark VII and 1982-89 or so Continental)
Rebuild Kit, Master Cylinder, Brake: Ford E25Y-2004-A
Brake Pressure Differential
Valve (Proportioning Valve):
Ford E4ZZ-2B257-A (unique to the SVO; engineering number E4ZX-2B257-AA)
KONI Struts & Shocks -- while Ford used to stock replacements; you must now go through a KONI dealer to purchase new dampeners, or straight through KONI for rebuild for either out-of-warranty or if you are an original owner, in-warranty replacement.
The 1984 Struts & Shocks had firmer valving, and the replacements valved for the 1985-86 cars are what you will get unless you specify some sort of custom valving.
Front Struts (Shocks) -- KONI 1984 - E4ZZ-18124-A 1985-86 -- E5ZZ-18124-A Rear Shocks -- KONI 1984 -- E4ZZ-18125-A 1985-86 -- E5ZZ-18125-ARear Disc Brake Anti Rattle Clip and Insulator Kit: Ford F0LY-2200-A
Lenses -- Where two part numbers are listed (as applicable), the Passenger side part number is listed first; followed by the Driver side part number.
Headlamp Lens: 1985.5-86 -- Ford E5ZZ-13007-A and E5ZZ-13007-B -- Obsolete
Headlamp Assembly (including Lens): Ford E5ZZ-13008-A and E5ZZ-13008-B -- Obsolete -- The assembly includes the rubber and other pieces -- new headlamp lenses (above) combined with used parts are the only alternative.
Headlamp Wiring Harness: 1985.5-86 -- Ford E5ZZ-14290-K -- Obsolete
Park Lamps: 1984 -- Ford E4ZZ-13200-A and E4ZZ-13201-A -- Clear Lens -- These are the "inner" lamps -- Obsolete.
Park Lamps: 1985-86 -- Ford E5ZZ-13200-B and E5ZZ-13201-B -- These are the "inner" lamps -- Obsolete.
Side Marker Lamps: Ford E4ZZ-15A201-A and E4ZZ-15A201-B -- Side Marker Lamp -- These are the "outer" lamps -- Obsolete.
Headlight Support: 1984-86 -- Ford E5ZZ-8A284-C (Support, Lower) Supersedes a 1984 part number E4ZZ-8A284-A -- Obsolete
Taillamp Assembly: 1984 (Black Trim) -- Ford E4ZZ-13404-A and E4ZZ-13405-A -- Obsolete
Taillamp Assembly: 1985-86 (Grey Trim) -- Ford E5ZZ-13404-B and E5ZZ-13405-B -- Obsolete
Taillamp Lens (with seal): 1984 (Black Trim) -- Ford E4ZZ-13450-A and E4ZZ-13451-A -- Obsolete
Taillamp Lens (with seal): 1985-86 (Grey Trim) -- Ford E5ZZ-13450-B and E5ZZ-13451-B (Passenger Side)
Taillamp Lens Seal: 1984-86 -- Ford E1FZ-13W520-A -- seal only -- necessary to repair a loose lens -- already included in assembly and lens.
3rd Brake Lamp: 1986: Ford E6ZZ-13A613-E -- Obsolete
Stop Lamp Assembly -- High-Mount: 1986 (3rd brake light in-spoiler, assembly, not including Housing) -- Ford E6ZZ-13A613-E -- Obsolete (superseded 1990 part number may work -- not yet verified)
Stop Lamp Retainer -- High-Mount: 1986 (Housing for 3rd brake light in-spoiler) -- Ford E6ZZ-13A621-A -- Obsolete
Fog Lamps: Various Ford base part numbers (15200) and Motorsport/SVO part numbers apply in either kit form, single lights, or mounting orientation (spare parts discarded/lenses easily flipped upside down); some NOS available with metal "Marchal Cat" logo. The more recent NOS & General Motors Accessories Catalog part number 998528 kits have the logo painted on the inside of the glass -- no known functionality difference; deemed cosmetic only.
Coil Cover: 1986 -- Ford E6ZZ-14A088-A -- Obsolete; use superseded part number (without emissions decal).
Wheel Center Cap: Ford E2GZ-1130-A (Cover) -- about $8 list each. Also reportedly used on some 1982 Tempos.
Wheel Lug Nut: Ford E4ZZ-1012-A (Wheel Nut) -- about $5 list each, package of 5 pieces.
Antenna Mast: Ford E2ZZ-18A886-A (Mast Assembly) -- black antenna mast only.
Antenna Base: Ford E0BZ-18A984-A (Base & Cable Assembly) -- Does not include black cover -- Obsolete. Use superseded part.
Hatchback Struts: Motorcraft AL110
License Plate Frame (front): Ford E2GZ-17A387-A -- Obsolete -- often discarded by the dealer in favor of dealer promotional frame.
Turn Signal Switch: Ford F33Z-13341-B (switch mechanism -- does not include the lever)
Temperature Control Knob: Ford E43Z-18519-A (Knob Assembly -- one package of 2 pieces)
Interior Door Panel "Door Handle" Armrest Mounting Clip: Ford E1DZ-5424146-BB (Clip -- one package of 11 pieces)
Hurst Leather Shift Knob: Ford E4ZZ-7213-A (Knob Assembly) -- obsolete -- replace with Motorsport T-5 Shift Knob M-7213-A. The nylon threads will "rethread" (strip) to accommodate the SVO threads. You may also use an aftermarket knob. Another option is to change the shift lever with a later SVT Cobra-compatible lever (any non-SVO T-5 lever) and use the leather SVT Cobra knob.
Hurst Leather Shifter Boot: Ford E4ZZ-7277-B -- obsolete -- replace with Motorsport Boot M-7277-A.
Spray Lacquer Paint: M4J-4148H -- Dark Charcoal -- for hard plastic interior pieces.
Engine Cooling Fan Control System
Failure of this system is a very common malady with the SVOs (and other Fords of this era), and is often indicated by overheating or poor air conditioning performance as the engine cooling fan does not function. The most obvious visual indicator is melting of the white/grey plastic connector to the "TRW" engine cooling fan relay module (fan control) or melting on the printed-circuit edge-card connector on the fan control itself. Sometimes a "melted plastic" smell is obvious in the passenger compartment (the fan control is located under the dash, below and left of the steering column). The module and connector, in tandem, tend to overheat and melt, causing non-operation of the engine cooling fan.
To repair this system, the plastic module harness connector usually needs to be replaced along with two leads (the unaffected leads are best left-alone); the fan control should be replaced as well. Ford has an updated part for the fan control, and once these are replaced in tandem, the system tends to be reliable again.
A contributor to system failure is sometimes a bad engine cooling fan motor -- resistance in the circuit will tend to cause the system to overheat -- a bad motor causes problems in the circuit. The connector and/or pigtail assembly to the engine cooling fan can also be a culprit.
Engine Cooling Fan Module Harness
Repair Kit: Ford E4FZ-8C290-A
Repairs the flat, white/grey plastic connector to the "TRW"
cooling fan relay module (see below). The module and connector,
in tandem, tend to overheat and melt, causing failure of the engine
cooling fan operation resulting in overheating; and non-functioning
of the air conditioner. Includes parts to cover all models using
8- or 10-pin connector, and includes replacement leads for those
that burn-out. Sometimes failure of this circuit can be attributed
to "tiring" fan motor and/or fan power connector. About
$24 list. We have a suitable replacement for less.
Some notes on Part Numbers vs. Engineering Numbers:
Engineering numbers indicate the "base" part, and your Ford dealer can identify the part number based on this number.
You may or may not see hyphens between the different sections of the part numbers -- it seems to be random.
Engineering numbers will differ -- often the same mold or design is used, and it may or may not change the engineering number -- if it is changed, then often the part is of higher quality (sometimes there are quality/durability issues that are addressed in subsequent production runs)
Example:
E3ZZ-9430-A is the part number of the Turbo 2.3 Exhaust Manifold -- however the engineering number on the part itself (on an exhaust manifold that was bought in 1997 for example) is E6SZ-9430-AA . The Engineering number has changed (from E3 to E6 -- 1983 to 1986) and they did major improvements on the design of the manifold. This engineering number (also termed a casting number) will again change with later revisions (if there are any), or when Ford has more runs produced either by the same manufacturer or even perhaps produced by a different manufacturer.
Another Example:
Let's say you're looking at the front-end diagram in a parts book or other reference . . . you may see a number in the drawing for a front bumper cover . . . "8190."
This "8190" tells the parts guy to look in the "8000" group (Radiator, Grille and Cooling -- 8000-8499; catalog section number 80)...where he'll find it's a front cover (if he doesn't already know it's a front cover -- many seasoned parts guys learn this like a second language). The front cover is an obvious part and easy to identify, but there's tons of parts that aren't . . . so the number you see in your book will be very helpful a lot of the time. Don't forget your parts guy is dealing with Fords built from day-one. Even if, for example, you figure he's dealing with only a 10-year span of cars on a day-to-day basis -- on paper that's about 5,000 sheets (both sides) of parts and part descriptions and illustrations -- approximately 10,000 pages total. Keeping that in mind, perhaps you can better appreciate where he's coming from when you ask him to look-up a "doohickey."
So back to our discussion . . . He looks-up that your car, the 1984 Mustang SVO (in the computer, or the fiche, or the book) and identifies the exact part number for the 8190 base part -- the exact part number for your specific application.
In this case, for the Mustang SVO, 1985-86 (the updated part for all years including 1984), the part number is E5ZZ-8190-C
"E5" means 1985 -- it was superseded in 1985 -- otherwise it would have been "E4" if it didn't change at all
"ZZ" means Mustang. (Actually the first Z means Mustang, I forget the meaning of the second Z)
"8190" means Front cover.
"C" means the specific cover designed in 1985 -- in this case for the SVO. If there are different colors or shapes of a specific part, usually this last digit is used to distinguish them apart -- for colors, optional equipment trim, or even right (A) or left (B). In this case, "C" means SVO. "C" doesn't always mean SVO, just like "A" and "B" don't always mean left or right. We'll just consider this a random assignment in this case.
To make this more clear,
1985-86 Mustang (except GT), the part number is E5ZZ-8190-A
1985-86 Mustang GT, the part number is E5ZZ-8190-B
And as we discussed,
1985.5-86 Mustang SVO, the part number is E5ZZ-8190-C
Now oddly enough, the 1984-85 (early) Mustang SVO part number was E4ZZ-8190-A
Mustang/T-Bird/Others -- Sharing of Parts
Remember that
not all SVO parts will be "ZZ" -- the engine parts especially
are shared with "S"
(T-Bird) -- so they'll be "SZ" and most commonly from
1983 -- E3SZ.
Another example...
the center caps of the wheels are from the Granada which during
1982 was
"G" (instead of "Z" for Mustang) -- the part
number for those is E2GZ 1130-A
"E2"
-- 1982
"GZ" -- Tempo/Topaz
"1130" -- Cap, Hub (in the 1000-1999 category, Chassis
Parts, Wheels/Hubs/Drums -- catalog
section number 10)
"A" -- specific application
Unlike the "front cover," you can still get the "hub cap."
© 1996-2001 www.mustangsvo.org - Revised 07/14/2001